Thursday, June 14, 2007

Spectacular Yemeni Village above the Clouds

I eagerly anticipated breakfast on this bright muggy Thursday morning. Hudayadah is situated on the Red Sea, a small coastal city about halfway between the Southwest tip of Yemen and the border with Saudi Arabia. Before the massive port was constructed there, the fishing trade was a major industry.

This morning our host Arif drove us to a large jetty where the boats had just returned from a night of fishing on the Red Sea. The fishing boats were anchored on one side of the jetty and the "breakfast" huts were situated on the opposite side. Arif drove down beside the long row of grass huts and began to inspect each fisherman's catch. We selected the third batch we examined. They pulled fresh Indian mackerel, crabs and even small squid from the cooler, filleted them on a cutting board, applied spices (similar to cajun seasoning) then cooked them in an open oven along with fresh bread. They spread newspaper over the table at which we sat and began delivering plate after plate of freshly cooked "blackened" fish and hot bread. We ate every scrumptious morsel with our hands and had to carefully grip our coke bottles so they didn't slip to the ground. It was also hilarious to see people attempt to answer their mobile phones with greasy blackened fingers, some would ask the waiter to grab the phone from their pocket, answer it and hold it up to their ears while they talked and still tried to eat.

We had a last minute change of plan and decided to meet Eilidh & Christina Phelps (another friend from Bahrain who was visiting Eilidh) halfway between Hudaydah and Sana'a in a popular [and historic] mountain region called Manakah. So, they set off from Sana'a in a taxi while we setoff from Hudaydah and met at the rendezvous point at nearly the same moment. We all caravaned to the small village of Hajjara high atop a mountain in the Manakah region, found our tourist hotel and lounged together on the floor to have lunch. The Hajjara Tourist Hotel is popular for its lunches, dinners and entertainment. Lunch is the largest meal enjoyed by most in Yemen. We were served lots of traditional delicious dishes, dips, salads and fruit. We were also introduced to Bint as-Sahan, a sweet pastry which is topped with lots of Yemeni honey.

We said farewell to Amin and Jihad, who traveled back to Sana'a with the taxi. We had a leisurely afternoon exploring the village and took a hike at sunset to a rock cropping which overlooked Hajjara.
The evening festivities were quite a surprise. The hotel was full of westerners, mostly younger "Lonely Planet" types and several language students, we had great fun. The entertainment was traditional music and dancing. We were invited to join in or just enjoy watching the dancers and listening to the music. We had a wonderful evening. This was a very humble accommodation (less than 1 star), pallets for sleeping but clean with "western" toilets. The staff was extremely helpful and very friendly. Breakfast was served on the rooftop which overlooked the town and had an amazing view of the entire valley. Since the village is located high in the mountains, even in June there was a refreshing chill in the air. We were absolutely wiped out (knackered) and a good night's sleep with the windows open and fresh mountain air wafting through the room was a perfect reward for this amazing day.



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