Wednesday, June 13, 2007

Tried Khat? Yes, but I didn't Inhale...

Since both border crossings (Saudi & Yemen) had taken much longer than planned, we decided it would not be prudent to make the 5+ hour drive straight to Sana'a. Amin and his Uncle Jihad would ride with me the rest of the journey to Sana'a. The last 90 miles of the trip from the coastal plains of Western Yemen up to Sana'a is experienced on a two-lane mountain road with many switchbacks. We decided it would be much better to stay the night in Hudaydah and get a fresh start the next morning.

It was nearly 2:30PM when we left the border crossing compound and we drove the short distance to the village of Haradh. Once they realized we were not pressed for time, Walid and his crew were eager to show us some authentic Yemeni hospitality. Being a Wednesday afternoon (the start of their weekend), the restaurants were closed for the mid-afternoon break or finished serving lunch by this time, so we drove to Walid's home and entered his Majlis [sitting room designed for meals and entertaining]. Walid lived in a humble dwelling but we could not have been more comfortable, taken care of and well fed. Lunch was ordered in, we spread out on the floor and feasted until we were stuffed. Walid served fresh juice then sweet tea. He then insisted that we stay for a while longer and partake in a famed Yemeni tradition of-"chewing" together.

While I must admit this is not a particular vice that I would generally condone, I had a keen interest in trying it and would not have felt good about rejecting the hospitality of our host in this circumstance.

Khat (or Qat) is definitely an acquired taste. This might not have been the best quality crop but to me it just tasted like chewing the leaves from your garden shrubs. While I did not chew for hours (as is the custom), my 60-70 minute long chew yielded little reaction except perhaps the sensation derived from having a "Red Bull". There, I checked it off of my list!

After bidding Walid and his colleagues farewell, we then made the 2 hour journey to Hudaydah through a number of small villages along the edge of this coastal plain. We stopped along the way for a few pictures and to refuel (As you might expect there was quite a difference in the cost of fuel in Yemen vs. Saudi). Once we reached Hudayah, I was introduced to Arif (the owner of a large Sabre agency in the city). He arranged for our lodging and took us to dinner that evening.

What an amazing day! These are the experiences that will make this journey so rich and memorable.


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